"I mean, that's my least favourite sport, to be honest," a then 23-year-old Tyler, The Creator told Billboard in 2014, referring to the name of his brand Golf Wang. "I don't know. The word just looks sick." Golf Wang has zero connections to the sport—save for the occasional sweater vest that's a golfwear staple. It's really a playful spoonerism of Wolf Gang, short for the hip-hop collective Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All that Tyler was a part of. Tyler's sentiments may have changed since. In his first collaboration with Louis Vuitton in its Pharrell Williams era, you'd find a series of golf-inspired accessories, golfwear and actual, usable golf paraphernalia. The Louis Vuitton Spring 2024 Men's Capsule Collection by Tyler, the Creator's golf bag is an impressive piece crafted from Damier Golf coated canvas (a grass-green rendition of the maison's signature Damier pattern) trimmed with leather and gold-coloured hardware, and comes with a set of three balls and four tees. It's fitted with a number of nifty pockets, has an umbrella holder, and can carry around a full set of clubs. Louis Vuitton and Tyler are definitely not joshing around. This isn't Louis Vuitton's first entry into golf. In 2023, the maison introduced a new golf trunk geared towards both professionals and lovers of the sport. Not only does it have dedicated compartments for everything and anything golf-related, it even comes with a Louis Vuitton-branded putting mat for on-the-go practice. The collaboration with Tyler is an indication that the sport is quickly becoming a luxury fashion darling—another avenue for a brand to expand into. What was once a somewhat exclusionary sport guarded by the confines of a country club has opened up to a wider audience with golf courses made more accessible. Golf's elitist rep has changed of late too, thanks to (as with a lot of other things) the Covid-19 pandemic. With social-distancing protocols in place and indoor spaces seen as potential super-spreader hotbeds, golf became the perfect way of blowing off steam and keeping a safe level of social interaction at a time when congregating in large groups was potentially dangerous. Teeing off in the open space, surrounded by a maximum of four other people, made golf ideal as a much needed mental health break. The numbers don't lie. The National Golf Foundation in the US noted a record number of people who played golf for the first time in 2023 at 3.4 million. It's a figure that has been consistent since the pandemic; a pre-pandemic record was set in 2000 with 2.4 million beginners. What's even more telling about golf's growing mainstream appeal is that young adults (aged 18 to 34) make up the sport's biggest segment with over 12 million playing both on and off courses.
Unsurprisingly, Louis Vuitton is far from the only brand attempting to capture a growing number of younger players, whether new or seasoned. adidas and BAPE dropped what they called a "golf ready" collection in October 2023 as part of a year-long celebration of the duo's 20th anniversary of collaborating together as well as the latter's 30th anniversary.
Much like Louis Vuitton, adidas and BAPE played up the colour green with a custom pair of Stan Smiths featuring a removable kiltie lace cover rendered in a camo print, a matching heel moustache, a green outsole and green sock liners. The sneakers were complemented by a range of ready-to-wear made to perform on the green while also having a streetwear sensibility. A camo print windbreaker and trousers aren't typically what you'd see on golf courses where plain polo tees and chinos have traditionally reigned supreme, but they're indicative of the kind of energy that the sport is now engaging with.
If adidas and BAPE's collaboration is too much of a statement on the green, brands like Fendi and Berluti offer more timeless proposals with elements of traditional individual iconographies. Released in tandem with the 2023 Ryder Cup, Fendi's golf capsule collection focused on comfort. Cotton bermudas and polo shirts trimmed with the FF logo formed the foundations of the capsule. A hooded windbreaker and a knit gilet completed the ready-to-wear portion, each providing semblances of protection and style.
Berluti took a similar approach. Its golf capsule collection was a classic assortment of jackets, gilets and lightweight knits emblazoned with the Berluti B. A new pair of leather derbies was also introduced, fitted with soles crafted specifically for golf, but with Berluti's signature leather patina panels differentiating it from any other golf-appropriate footwear.
It's always a tricky strategic manoeuvre that brands have to be cognisant of whenever attempting to break into a new segment. Whether it was skateboarding or tennis or basketball, it was always the we're-not-reinventing-the-wheel kind of approach that worked best to capture the attention of a burgeoning scene as well as existing players of the sport. Fendi and Berluti, like Louis Vuitton, offered their own interpretations of the golf bag without straying far from familiar designs. They function just the same—packed with added functionalities for some—and are masterful showcases of the kind of craftsmanship that each brand is known for.
"Following the success of Mr P.'s first golf collection, we are delighted to bring our customers a new range, this time with pieces in partnership with leading golf brand G/FORE," says Olie Arnold, style director at MR PORTER. The online menswear platform launched its latest golf collection last month under its in-house brand Mr P. with a collaboration with G/FORE—a Los Angeles-based golfwear brand.
G/FORE had already found its footing as a contemporary golf brand that's unapologetically youthful, fun and whimsical. You'll find staple classics sitting right next to its brightly-soled Gallivan2r shoes, and patterned polos in tech materials you'd want to wear on the regular. Tapping on the expertise of an existing presence in golf offers a level of credibility that assures consumers the capsule collection isn't mere aesthetics.
Golf is slowly going the way of how tennis has been embraced by the luxury fashion community. Louis Vuitton was an early adopter by signing Naomi Osaka as an ambassador in 2021, followed by Carlos Alcaraz last year. We have yet to see a pro golfer fronting luxury fashion campaigns but that doesn't seem too far away. As it stands, the number of celebs taking up the sport is becoming more visible. DJ Khaled shared a photo of himself on Instagram with his Louis Vuitton golf accessories; Justin Bieber has been consistently playing recreationally for a couple of years now; Travis Scott is also a fan, as are many others.
Yes, there is a renewed resurgence for the sport, marked by a continuous intersection between luxury fashion and lifestyle. But will it stay? That is anybody's guess and it depends on how the golfing community will tap on this uptick to evolve the sport. There needs to be a way to not only make golf more exciting, but also more accessible to a range of income brackets so that not only the Tylers of the world can partake in the joy of the swing.
